Learn about
flying to southwest Texas by reading
"Big Sky Plus Big
Bend Equals Big Adventure"
by Charlie Spence, IFA
Member and Aviation Writer. It features a mini, but thorough
tour of the destination, plus all you'll need to know to plan
your trip including getting there, objective information on
places to stay and eat, and things to do. At the end of the
article, we've provided a summary of the contact information for
your easy reference. Enjoy!
Big Sky Plus Big Bend Equals Big
Adventure - Flying to the Big Bend Country of Texas
by
Charlie Spence, Aviation Travel Writer and IFA Member
When you visit
the Big Bend Country of Texas there are so many things to see and do
that one of your difficult decisions will be what to enjoy on this
trip and what to save for a future visit. Big Bend gets its name from
the big curve in the Rio Grande in Southwest Texas and Northern
Mexico. The area is part of the vast Chihuahuan Desert that extends
from Central Mexico into New Mexico and here you will find three
different life zones: river, desert and mountain.
There are
millions of acres of public land in this vast, remote, and wildly
beautiful region but also nestled in are unique small communities and
plush four-star resorts. The Big Bend National Forest and the Big Bend
Ranch State Park offer diverse activities for both lovers of the
rugged outdoors and the more laid back 'I just want to relax and
admire the solitude and scenery' persons. The Big Bend National Park
is the only park in the United States that contains a complete
mountain range'the Chisos. Hiking, horseback riding, mountain
bicycling, Jeep touring, and river running are just of a few of the
activities awaiting adventurers. Just meandering through the area in
an auto over the paved roads offers the less adventurous the
opportunity to ooh and ah at the magnificent scenery around almost
every curve.
For river
runners there are five major and several smaller canyons in the more
than 250 miles of protected river in Big Bend State Ranch Park, Big
Bend National Park, and Rio Grand Wild and Scenic River. Walls of
these canyons rise as much as 1500 feet offering some of the most
awesome wilderness scenery found anywhere. Some canyons can be
navigated in a single day; others require several days. Shorter trips
are available in a few easily accessible river segments outside the
canyons. Some areas are more treacherous than others but experienced
river runners should find them an acceptable challenge. Local
outfitters offer trips as short as three hours and as long as 10 days.
A variety of guided tours offer beginners a safe adventure.
Do-it-yourselfers can obtain supplies and rent equipment from any of
several services. Before undertaking any journey by yourself, talk to
some locals, get maps, be sure you stay within your experience level,
and remember that you are responsible for any lost or damaged rental
equipment and the cost of any rescue efforts.

Photo courtesy of the National Park Service
Mouth of
Elena Canyon
Big Bend is
not one of the easiest places to visit when arriving from a distance.
The nearest airport for general aviation is Alpine-Casparis Municipal
(E38). With a rental car you will have a drive of about 85 miles to
Presidio along interesting highway 67. (There is a small airport at
Presidio, but it has no FBO and the area has no rental cars
available.)
Presidio on
the Rio Grande just west of the Big Bend Ranch State Park is a place
to start your visit. The state park extends from just east of Presidio
to near Lajitas. Drive through the southern section of the park along
Route 170'Camino del Rio, or River Road'between the towns. Camino del
Rio twists and turns, climbs mountains, crosses arroyos, and hugs
canyon walls. At the top of 'the Big Hill' you can look deep into
Mexico, west into Colorado canyon and east 75 miles to the Chisos
Mountains. The drive can be a challenge. There are few shoulders. The
Big Hill is one of the steepest grades on a Texas highway. There is
open grazing so you might find cows, horses, burros, or mules on or
right next to the pavement. Take it slow to be safe and to enjoy the
views.
At Presidio
you can cross the Rio Grande into Ojinaga, Mexico. Both towns were
originally one before the Rio Grande became a border line between two
nations. In this town just south of the border you will find shopping
at bargain prices and fine eating establishments. The bakery'Panaderia
la Francesa'in downtown Ojinaga is well known for its bread and
pastries baked in adobe ovens. The people are friendly and welcome
tourists.
Three miles
east of Presidio on Route 170 visit the Fort Leaton state historical
site. It is a massive adobe fortress built by Ben Leaton in 1848
immediately after the Mexican War. This frontiersman had a profitable
trade with native Apache and Comanche tribes, supplied U.S. Army
patrols, and was even accused of encouraging Indian raids on
settlements in Mexico. Twenty four of the original 40 rooms have been
restored and work is progressing on the others. Entrance fee is $2 per
adult.
Twelve miles before reaching Lajitas
stop at historic Terlingua, referred to as the 'Ghost Town.' From the
turn of the last century until after World War II, Terlingua was the
home of Chisos mine, which extracted cinnabar, or mercury ore. Several
structures in Terlingua have been restored or stabilized. Shops and
restaurants now occupy the main building that once was the largest
store between El Paso and Del Rio. A new generation of inhabitants has
restored some of the miners' stone cabins. Much of historic Terlingua
is private property, but the helpful people at the Terlingua Trading
Company can quickly tell you what areas are off limits. The music
scene is lively for a community as remote as Terlingua. It is a unique
Big Bend-West Texas sound that the local dance bands often take to
other parts of the Lone Star State and frequently to other parts of
the world.
The state park
is composed of almost 300,000 acres containing two mountain ranges
that include extinct volcanoes, water falls, and sheer canyons. It was
purchased from the private owners in 1988 and a small herd of Texas
longhorns is maintained as a reminder of the ranching heritage. Just
east of Lajitas is where you will enter the other park area'Big Bend
National Park.

Photo courtesy of the National Park Service
Fiesta
entertainment in Big Bend National Park
While in the
area take a drive up highway 385 to the town of Marathon, considered
the northern entrance to the Big Bend country. The name was suggested
by a sea captain because it reminded him of Marathon, Greece. The town
is headquarters for vast ranching activities today and its historic
past can be visited at the town museum and the old town jail. Five
miles south of town on the Post road visit the remains of Fort Pena
Colorado. The fort was constructed in 1879 to protect area residents
from Indian raids. After the army defeated the last of the wild
Apaches, the fort was abandoned in 1893 but some of the original
foundations can still be seen. Today the site is a public park.
Thousands of
visitors come to the Big Bend Country every year so there is a wide
range of accommodations from different levels of camping to resorts to
pamper you. There are fees to enter the National Park.
Details
How
To Get There
The Alpine-Casparis Municipal Airport is two miles northwest of
Alpine. It has two asphalt runways'1/19 6000 feet, and 5/23 5018
feet. Elevation is 4515 MSL so watch your density altitude
technique. There are NDB, GPS, and RNAV approaches. A courtesy
car will take you to Alpine car rental in town. Phone or UNICOM
(122.8) ahead and they will have the courtesy car ready. FBO
hours are 8 a.m. to 5 p.m. Monday through Saturday and 10 a.m.
to 2 p.m. Sunday. 100LL, jet, and jet-premix fuel are available.
There are no landing or parking fees.
Where
to Stay
What you intend to do on your visit dictates where to stay.
Accommodations range from the basic campsites through bed and
breakfasts and modest hotels to plush resorts. For campgrounds,
the entrance fee of $15 a week per vehicle covers use of a
campsite.
In
Marathon, the restored West Texas Hotel, built in the 1920s, has
ranch-style furnishings and a restaurant serving traditional
Texas fare. Rates vary greatly from $65 to $225. The Marathon
Motel has 10 rooms, an RV park and campsites. It is on 10 acres
with unobstructed views of mountain sunsets and starry skies. In
town is the Gage Hotel and a B&B adjoining.
In the
Big Bend National Park the Chisos Mountain Lodge has 72 rooms,
post office, and convenience store.
In
Lajitas on Highway 170, between the national and state parks,
the Lajitas Resort has 72 luxury hotel rooms, two restaurants,
bar, swimming pool, shops, and 18-hole golf course.
Terlingua Ranch and Cabins offer secluded accommodations with
pool, restaurant and quick access to many miles of back country.
These
are but a few of the many and varied locations in the Big Bend
area waiting to welcome you. Make your reservations before you
go through
IFA's Online Travel Booking Service
where you can check rates and book your room and rental car.
Deep discounts may apply.
Where
to Eat
A wide variety of eating establishments are in the area with
most having the Mexican or Tex-Mex flavor. There is a rich
variety of places, but not all of them serve three meals. Some
are open only for dinner. A few places you might want to try
are:
-
Caf' Cenizo and White Buffalo Bar. Near Gage, this place
serves creative regional cuisine with the Mexican and West
Texas flair. Breakfast and dinner daily, but lunch only on
Sundays.
-
Candelilla Caf' on Highway 179 near Lajitas. Open breakfast,
lunch and dinner for an extensive menu of regional
specialties. Glass on three sides gives excellent view of
amazing sunsets. Next door, drop in to the Thirsty Goat
Saloon, an upscale western bar often providing live music.
-
El Patio in Presidio features is considered that town's
favorite eating establishment. Mexican food, beer, ice cream,
salad bar.
Notice: This
information is current as of October 2004. It is recommended that you
contact the numbers, and/or visit the websites above to determine any
changes to the information.
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